From underdogs to cult favorites: The rise of niche fragrance labels in China

Going from underdogs to cult favorites, niche fragrance labels across the globe are quietly crafting their own empires.

Last year, over 20 niche perfume brands took part in China’s 618 shopping extravaganza for the first time, with most increasing sales by over 60 percent.

One such label is Parisian perfume house Maison Francis Kurkdjian, whose Baccarat Rouge 540 has become a worldwide sensation thanks to social media virality and the seal of major celebrity approval. Rihanna’s endorsement propelled the perfume into mainstream consciousness, while the hashtag #baccaratrouge540 has garnered over 393.1 million views on TikTok.

Its widespread success is also taking over China’s retail seasons. Besides ranking in the top-20 fragrances during this year’s 618 pre-sales period, after opening its official Tmall flagship in July 2022, the online store’s sales increased by 104 percent in a time when the overall domestic beauty market was declining.