Pomellato Showcases Beauty in Its Most Essential Form

Almost 25 years ago, Pomellato revolutionized the world of jewelry with a ring that freed colored gemstones from traditional mountings to become the fashion house’s most powerful, iconic creation. Over two decades later, Pomellato has chosen its home city of Milan to unveil a new chapter of its most iconic collection, Nudo.

Each piece of Pomellato jewelry is inspired, designed, and handcrafted in the Lombard capital and imbued with the essence of the architecture, elegance, and innovation that define the city. It’s no coincidence, then, that Pomellato chose the 2025 Milan Design Week to usher in Nudo’s new era. To Vincenzo Castaldo, Pomellato’s creative director, the new Nudo collection represents the purest expression of the creative soul of the fashion house founded by Pino Rabolini in 1967, and now led by Sabina Belli, CEO of the Pomellato Group.

Nudo is not just a design, Castaldo says, but a philosophical statement on beauty in its most essential form. It is a collection born of the historic heritage of Milanese design tradition and a bold vision of distilling a jewel’s design to its purest essence: a gem that appears to float freely against naked skin. As light dances on each stone’s 57 facets, each precious creation also becomes a metaphor for freedom and the expression of personal style.

Nudo is a masterpiece where many art forms converge: the inventiveness of creativity, the sensitivity of gem-picking, the artisan’s experience and precision in cutting them, and each woman’s freedom in her own, unique way of wearing jewels. In harmony, playing along with the light refracting through the stones’ facets; or in contrast, pairing different colors, metals and souls on each new day. All thanks to the art of layering, transcending all trends and giving women the freedom to express their personality by pairing jewels that charge even the most daily look with meaning. Escaping all categorization, because—like all icons—Nudo refuses to be bound by rules.

The new souls of an icon that makes the impossible look effortless.
At once unmistakable and revolutionary, the nude aesthetic of this series embodies a design philosophy that was made iconic by its simplicity and vision. Now, more than 20 years since its debut, Nudo has evolved into a catalog of 130 precious masterworks—rings, earrings, bangles, and necklaces—with 24 gemstones in different colors. Its identity, while remaining true to itself, expands into three innovative chapters: Nudo Mini, preserving the collection’s iconic cut in more intimate sizes; the versatile and vibrant Nudo Toi et Moi; and Nudo High Jewelry, a veritable symphony of rare gems and sophisticated design—and the heart of Pomellato’s presence at Milan Design Week.

The art of color and picking the perfect gemstone.
But while the collection’s aesthetic is always renewing itself, the iconic and revolutionary nude mounting that has been the collection’s staple since its inception remains its unmistakable core feature. Free from their cage, the gems shine in their purest brilliance. “The art of gems resides in capturing nature’s poetry in color,” says Stefano Cortecci, Pomellato’s gem master. “I don’t merely look for perfect gems, but for gems with a personality, a soul. Each stone must possess that magical quality that speaks to both the eyes and heart.”

Like an artist choosing pigments for a masterpiece, each gemstone picked to become a Nudo creation is a brushstroke of pure color, carefully selected to capture and irradiate light: from the deep hues of the London blue topaz to the vivid heat of rubellite, from amethyst’s mysterious purples to prasiolite’s greens; all the way to the ethereal whites of milky quartz. Each jewel is then handcrafted within Casa Pomellato’s walls by over a hundred artisans, who combine the stones with rose gold and pavé diamonds, melding their know-how with the finest goldsmithing mastery and the fashion house’s forward-looking soul.