Milan Fashion Week: Minimalism by Calcaterra, cheerful vibes by Fiorucci, Sagaboi

23 Feb 2024

On Thursday, the Milan Fashion Week runways showcased extremely diverse Fall/Winter 2024-25 collections, styled for self-reliant women who like to express themselves through their looks. Designers put the accent on their own unique identities, presenting smart collections infused with an amusing touch. Cheerful vibes characterised Fiorucci and Sagaboi, while Calcaterra pushed minimalism to the max.

Calcaterra received its guests at Moebius, a tapas/cocktail bar in a lively district of Milan. The venue, illuminated by large skylights, welcomed the models in a confidential atmosphere. They all displayed an innate elegance in their austere autumnal looks, energised by a few splashes of vibrant red. Generous volumes, designed to ensure maximum comfort, were the order of the day.

Ample overcoats and cape-mantles, in some cases with pockets galore, reached down to the ground, cocooning the body. A menswear-style jacket enveloped the figure, which was sharpened by a skintight turtleneck jumpsuit. White suits featured collarless and buttonless double-breasted jackets. Pared-down tunics in glossy satin were worn over matching trousers.

Small details underlined the fluidity of the lines, like the white sail-like scarf slipped inside a grey suit jacket, or the fabric flowers and leaves stitched along the length of a bouclé wool coat, as though they had fallen off a tree. There was fluidity also in the tops and dresses seemingly sculpted out of fabric, cleverly swathed around the body.

As usual, designer Daniele Calcaterra has created a powerfully minimalistic collection, focusing on fabrics and innovative textiles. He used fine wools, cotton, silk and alpaca, often blended with high-tech fibres. Each look was carefully thought-out in terms of weight, length, lines and balance of proportions, resulting in extremely powerful designs. Timelessly elegant items, designed to make women feel special in their everyday life.