Ancora, or the Chinese reconquest of Gucci.

14 Mar 2024

The Italian fashion house is launching the first Sabato de Sarno collection in China these days with a large-scale deployment across several cities. A strategic initiative at a time when many luxury players have seen their growth slow in the country in recent months.

Shanghai, Chengdu, Beijing, Shenzhen... In recent days, pop-ups adorned with Gucci colors have sprung up everywhere in the streets and the most luxurious shopping centers in the main Chinese metropolises. The concept? "Gucci Ancora" immersive spaces designed to introduce the local market to the very first collection by Sabato de Sarno, artistic director of Gucci since last year.

An operation of seduction marked by the ephemeral - with spaces installed for a week - but also by virality thanks to a grand opening attended by influencers and celebrities such as Wang Churan or Henry Lau.

These pop-ups also aim to be a testimony to the interest shown by the Florentine brand in the local artistic scene since each of these points of sale combines pieces from the new Spring-Summer 2024 collection with works by Chinese artists selected by X Zhu-Nowell, artistic director of the Rockbund Art Museum in Shanghai.

This initiative comes as Gucci, which accounts for nearly half of the Kering group's turnover, recorded a turnover of 9.9 billion euros in 2023, down -2%. Marked by slowing consumption in a China beset by political, social, and economic uncertainties, Kering had mentioned at the beginning of the year the implementation of a restructuring policy aimed at further increasing the visibility and exclusivity of its Houses. "We are committed to revitalizing Gucci, relying on the unique alliance of craftsmanship, Italian heritage, and modernity that characterizes this iconic House," said François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of the group at the beginning of the year.

While Gucci is reportedly considering setting up private lounges in Hong Kong and Shanghai for its VIP clientele, the Ancora project is also an opportunity to better acquaint the Chinese public with Sabato de Sarno. A necessary step at a time when the quiet luxury approach of the latter contrasts sharply with eight years of baroque aestheticism championed by his predecessor Alessandro Michele.